The propaganda that has created the soy sales miracle is all
the more remarkable because, only a few decades ago, the soybean
was considered unfit to eat - even in Asia. During the Chou
Dynasty (1134-246 BC) the soybean was designated one of the
five sacred grains, along with barley, wheat, millet and rice.
However,
the pictograph for the soybean, which dates from earlier times,
indicates that it was not first used as a food; for whereas
the pictographs for the other four grains show the seed and
stem structure of the plant, the pictograph for the soybean
emphasizes the root structure. Agricultural literature of
the period speaks frequently of the soybean and its use in
crop rotation. Apparently the soy plant was initially used
as a method of fixing nitrogen.13
The soybean
did not serve as a food until the discovery of fermentation
techniques, some time during the Chou Dynasty. The first soy
foods were fermented products like tempeh, natto, miso and
soy sauce.
At a later
date, possibly in the 2nd century BC, Chinese scientists discovered
that a purée of cooked soybeans could be precipitated
with calcium sulfate or magnesium sulfate (plaster of Paris
or Epsom salts) to make a smooth, pale curd - tofu or bean
curd. The use of fermented and precipitated soy products soon
spread to other parts of the Orient, notably Japan and Indonesia.
The Chinese
did not eat unfermented soybeans as they did other legumes
such as lentils because the soybean contains large quantities
of natural toxins or "antinutrients". First among
them are potent enzyme inhibitors that block the action of
trypsin and other enzymes needed for protein digestion.
These
inhibitors are large, tightly folded proteins that are not
completely deactivated during ordinary cooking. They can produce
serious gastric distress, reduced protein digestion and chronic
deficiencies in amino acid uptake. In test animals, diets
high in trypsin inhibitors cause enlargement and pathological
conditions of the pancreas, including cancer.14
Soybeans
also contain haemagglutinin, a clot-promoting substance that
causes red blood cells to clump together.
Trypsin
inhibitors and haemagglutinin are growth inhibitors. Weanling
rats fed soy containing these antinutrients fail to grow normally.
Growth-depressant compounds are deactivated during the process
of fermentation, so once the Chinese discovered how to ferment
the soybean, they began to incorporate soy foods into their
diets.
In precipitated
products, enzyme inhibitors concentrate in the soaking liquid
rather than in the curd. Thus, in tofu and bean curd, growth
depressants are reduced in quantity but not completely eliminated.
Soy
also contains goitrogens - substances that depress thyroid
function.
Additionally
99% a very large percentage of soy is genetically modified
and it also has one of the highest percentages contamination
by pesticides of any of our foods.
Soybeans
are high in phytic acid, present in the bran or hulls of all
seeds. It's a substance that can block the uptake of essential
minerals - calcium, magnesium, copper, iron and especially
zinc - in the intestinal tract.
Although
not a household word, phytic acid has been extensively studied;
there are literally hundreds of articles on the effects of
phytic acid in the current scientific literature. Scientists
are in general agreement that grain- and legume-based diets
high in phytates contribute to widespread mineral deficiencies
in third world countries.15
Analysis
shows that calcium, magnesium, iron and zinc are present in
the plant foods eaten in these areas, but the high phytate
content of soy- and grain-based diets prevents their absorption.
The soybean
has one of the highest phytate levels of any grain or legume
that has been studied,16 and the phytates in soy are highly
resistant to normal phytate-reducing techniques such as long,
slow cooking.17 Only a long period of fermentation will significantly
reduce the phytate content of soybeans.
When precipitated
soy products like tofu are consumed with meat, the mineral-blocking
effects of the phytates are reduced.18 The Japanese traditionally
eat a small amount of tofu or miso as part of a mineral-rich
fish broth, followed by a serving of meat or fish.
Vegetarians
who consume tofu and bean curd as a substitute for meat and
dairy products risk severe mineral deficiencies. The results
of calcium, magnesium and iron deficiency are well known;
those of zinc are less so.
Zinc is
called the intelligence mineral because it is needed for optimal
development and functioning of the brain and nervous system.
It plays a role in protein synthesis and collagen formation;
it is involved in the blood-sugar control mechanism and thus
protects against diabetes; it is needed for a healthy reproductive
system.
Zinc is
a key component in numerous vital enzymes and plays a role
in the immune system. Phytates found in soy products interfere
with zinc absorption more completely than with other minerals.19
Zinc deficiency can cause a "spacey" feeling that
some vegetarians may mistake for the "high" of spiritual
enlightenment.
Milk drinking
is given as the reason why second-generation Japanese in the
western world grow taller than their native ancestors. Some
investigators postulate that the reduced phytate content of
western diets - whatever may be its other deficiencies - is
the true explanation, pointing out that both Asian and Western
children who do not get enough meat and fish products to counteract
the effects of a high phytate diet, frequently suffer rickets,
stunting and other growth problems.20
Soy
Protein Isolate: Not So Friendly
Soy processors
have worked hard to get these antinutrients out of the finished
product, particularly soy protein isolate (SPI) which is the
key ingredient in most soy foods that imitate meat and dairy
products, including baby formulas and some brands of soy milk.
SPI is
not something you can make in your own kitchen. Production
takes place in industrial factories where a slurry of soy
beans is first mixed with an alkaline solution to remove fiber,
then precipitated and separated using an acid wash and, finally,
neutralized in an alkaline solution.
Acid washing
in aluminum tanks leaches high levels of aluminum into the
final product. The resultant curds are spray- dried at high
temperatures to produce a high-protein powder. A final indignity
to the original soybean is high-temperature, high-pressure
extrusion processing of soy protein isolate to produce textured
vegetable protein (TVP).
Much of
the trypsin inhibitor content can be removed through high-temperature
processing, but not all. Trypsin inhibitor content of soy
protein isolate can vary as much as fivefold.21 (In rats,
even low-level trypsin inhibitor SPI feeding results in reduced
weight gain compared to controls.22)
But high-temperature
processing has the unfortunate side-effect of so denaturing
the other proteins in soy that they are rendered largely ineffective.23
That's why animals on soy feed need lysine supplements for
normal growth.
Nitrites,
which are potent carcinogens, are formed during spray-drying,
and a toxin called lysinoalanine is formed during alkaline
processing.24 Numerous artificial flavorings, particularly
MSG, are added to soy protein isolate and textured vegetable
protein products to mask their strong "beany" taste
and to impart the flavor of meat.25
In feeding
experiments, the use of SPI increased requirements for vitamins
E, K, D and B12 and created deficiency symptoms of calcium,
magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, copper, iron and zinc.26
Phytic acid remaining in these soy products greatly inhibits
zinc and iron absorption; test animals fed SPI develop enlarged
organs, particularly the pancreas and thyroid gland, and increased
deposition of fatty acids in the liver.27
Yet soy
protein isolate and textured vegetable protein are used extensively
in school lunch programs, commercial baked goods, diet beverages
and fast food products. They are heavily promoted in third
world countries and form the basis of many food giveaway programs.
In spite
of poor results in animal feeding trials, the soy industry
has sponsored a number of studies designed to show that soy
protein products can be used in human diets as a replacement
for traditional foods.
An example
is "Nutritional Quality of Soy Bean Protein Isolates:
Studies in Children of Preschool Age", sponsored by the
Ralston Purina Company.28 A group of Central American children
suffering from malnutrition was first stabilized and brought
into better health by feeding them native foods, including
meat and dairy products. Then, for a two-week period, these
traditional foods were replaced by a drink made of soy protein
isolate and sugar.
All nitrogen
taken in and all nitrogen excreted was measured in truly Orwellian
fashion: the children were weighed naked every morning, and
all excrement and vomit gathered up for analysis. The researchers
found that the children retained nitrogen and that their growth
was "adequate", so the experiment was declared a
success.
Whether
the children were actually healthy on such a diet, or could
remain so over a long period, is another matter. The researchers
noted that the children vomited "occasionally",
usually after finishing a meal; that over half suffered from
periods of moderate diarrhea; that some had upper respiratory
infections; and that others suffered from rash and fever.
It should
be noted that the researchers did not dare to use soy products
to help the children recover from malnutrition, and were obliged
to supplement the soy-sugar mixture with nutrients largely
absent in soy products - notably, vitamins A, D and B12, iron,
iodine and zinc.
Marketing
The Perfect Food
"Just
imagine you could grow the perfect food. This food not only
would provide affordable nutrition, but also would be delicious
and easy to prepare in a variety of ways. It would be a healthful
food, with no saturated fat. In fact, you would be growing
a virtual fountain of youth on your back forty."
The author
is Dean Houghton, writing for The Furrow,2 a magazine published
in 12 languages by John Deere. "This ideal food would
help prevent, and perhaps reverse, some of the world's most
dreaded diseases. You could grow this miracle crop in a variety
of soils and climates. Its cultivation would build up, not
deplete, the land...this miracle food already exists... It's
called soy."
Just imagine.
Farmers have been imagining - and planting more soy. What
was once a minor crop, listed in the 1913 US Department of
Agriculture (USDA) handbook not as a food but as an industrial
product, now covers hundreds of millions acres of farmland.
Much of this harvest will be used to feed chickens, turkeys,
pigs, cows and salmon. Another large fraction will be squeezed
to produce oil for margarine, shortenings and salad dressings.
Advances
in technology make it possible to produce isolated soy protein
from what was once considered a waste product - the defatted,
high-protein soy chips - and then transform something that
looks and smells terrible into products that can be consumed
by human beings. Flavorings, preservatives, sweeteners, emulsifiers
and synthetic nutrients have turned soy protein isolate, the
food processors' ugly duckling, into a New Age Cinderella.
The new
fairy-tale food has been marketed not so much for her beauty
but for her virtues. Early on, products based on soy protein
isolate were sold as extenders and meat substitutes - a strategy
that failed to produce the requisite consumer demand. The
industry changed its approach.
"The
quickest way to gain product acceptability in the less affluent
society," said an industry spokesman, "is to have
the product consumed on its own merit in a more affluent society."3
So soy is now sold to the upscale consumer, not as a cheap,
poverty food but as a miracle substance that will prevent
heart disease and cancer, whisk away hot flushes, build strong
bones and keep us forever young.
The competition
- meat, milk, cheese, butter and eggs - has been duly demonised
by the appropriate government bodies. Soy serves as meat and
milk for a new generation of virtuous vegetarians.
Marketing Costs Money
Public
relations firms help convert research projects into newspaper
articles and advertising copy, and law firms lobby for favorable
government regulations. IMF money funds soy processing plants
in foreign countries, and free trade policies keep soybean
abundance flowing to overseas destinations.
The push
for more soy has been relentless and global in its reach.
Soy protein is now found in most supermarket breads. It is
being used to transform "the humble tortilla, Mexico's
corn-based staple food, into a protein-fortified 'super-tortilla'
that would give a nutritional boost to the nearly 20 million
Mexicans who live in extreme poverty".7 Advertising for
a new soy-enriched loaf from Allied Bakeries in Britain targets
menopausal women seeking relief from hot flushes. Sales are
running at a quarter of a million loaves per week.8
Soy milk
has posted the biggest gains, soaring from $2 million in 1980
to $300 million in the US last year.10 Recent advances in
processing have transformed the gray, thin, bitter, beany-tasting
Asian beverage into a product that Western consumers will
accept - one that tastes like a milkshake, but without the
guilt.
Processing
miracles, good packaging, massive advertising and a marketing
strategy that stresses the products' possible health benefits
account for increasing sales to all age groups. For example,
reports that soy helps prevent prostate cancer have made soy
milk acceptable to middle-aged men. "You don't have to
twist the arm of a 55- to 60-year-old guy to get him to try
soy milk," says Mark Messina. Michael Milken, former
junk bond financier, has helped the industry shed its hippie
image with well-publicized efforts to consume 40 grams of
soy protein daily.
Soy milk
sales are rising in Canada, even though soy milk there costs
twice as much as cow's milk. Soybean milk processing plants
are sprouting up in places like Kenya.11 Even China, where
soy really is a poverty food and whose people want more meat,
not tofu, has opted to build Western-style soy factories rather
than develop western grasslands for grazing animals.12
Soy
And Cancer
The new FDA ruling does not allow
any claims about cancer prevention on food packages, but that
has not restrained the industry and its marketers from making
them in their promotional literature.
"In addition to protecting
the heart," says a vitamin company brochure, "soy
has demonstrated powerful anticancer benefits...the Japanese,
who eat 30 times as much soy as North Americans, have a lower
incidence of cancers of the breast, uterus and prostate."37
Indeed they do. But the Japanese,
and Asians in general, have much higher rates of other types
of cancer, particularly cancer of the esophagus, stomach,
pancreas and liver.38 Asians throughout the world also have
high rates of thyroid cancer.39 The logic that links low rates
of reproductive cancers to soy consumption requires attribution
of high rates of thyroid and digestive cancers to the same
foods, particularly as soy causes these types of cancers in
laboratory rats.
Just how much soy do Asians eat?
A 1998 survey found that the average daily amount of soy protein
consumed in Japan was about eight grams for men and seven
for women - less than two teaspoons.40 The famous Cornell
China Study, conducted by Colin T. Campbell, found that legume
consumption in China varied from 0 to 58 grams per day, with
a mean of about twelve.41
Assuming that two-thirds of
legume consumption is soy, then the maximum consumption is
about 40 grams, or less than three tablespoons per day, with
an average consumption of about nine grams, or less than two
teaspoons. A survey conducted in the 1930s found that soy
foods accounted for only 1.5 per cent of calories in the Chinese
diet, compared with 65 per cent of calories from pork.42 (Asians
traditionally cooked with lard, not vegetable oil!)
Traditionally fermented soy products
make a delicious, natural seasoning that may supply important
nutritional factors in the Asian diet. But except in times
of famine, Asians consume soy products only in small amounts,
as condiments, and not as a replacement for animal foods -
with one exception. Celibate monks living in monasteries and
leading a vegetarian lifestyle find soy foods quite helpful
because they dampen libido.
It was a 1994 meta-analysis by
Mark Messina, published in Nutrition and Cancer, that fuelled
speculation on soy's anticarcinogenic properties.43 Messina
noted that in 26 animal studies, 65 per cent reported protective
effects from soy. He conveniently neglected to include at
least one study in which soy feeding caused pancreatic cancer
- the 1985 study by Rackis.44 In the human studies he listed,
the results were mixed.
A few showed some protective
effect, but most showed no correlation at all between soy
consumption and cancer rates. He concluded that "the
data in this review cannot be used as a basis for claiming
that soy intake decreases cancer risk". Yet in his subsequent
book, The Simple Soybean and Your Health, Messina makes just
such a claim, recommending one cup or 230 grams of soy products
per day in his "optimal" diet as a way to prevent
cancer.
Thousands of women are now consuming
soy in the belief that it protects them against breast cancer.
Yet, in 1996, researchers found that women consuming soy protein
isolate had an increased incidence of epithelial hyperplasia,
a condition that presages malignancies.45 A year later, dietary
genistein was found to stimulate breast cells to enter the
cell cycle - a discovery that led the study authors to conclude
that women should not consume soy products to prevent breast
cancer.46
Phytoestrogens:
Panacea Or Poison?
The male species of tropical
birds carries the drab plumage of the female at birth and
'colors up' at maturity, somewhere between nine and 24 months.
In 1991, Richard and Valerie
James, bird breeders in Whangerai, New Zealand, purchased
a new kind of feed for their birds - one based largely on
soy protein.47 When soy-based feed was used, their birds 'colored
up' after just a few months. In fact, one bird-food manufacturer
claimed that this early development was an advantage imparted
by the feed.
A 1992 ad for Roudybush feed
formula showed a picture of the male crimson rosella, an Australian
parrot that acquires beautiful red plumage at 18 to 24 months,
already brightly colored at 11 weeks old.
Unfortunately, in the ensuing
years, there was decreased fertility in the birds, with precocious
maturation, deformed, stunted and stillborn babies, and premature
deaths, especially among females, with the result that the
total population in the aviaries went into steady decline.
The birds suffered beak and bone
deformities, goiter, immune system disorders and pathological,
aggressive behavior. Autopsy revealed digestive organs in
a state of disintegration. The list of problems corresponded
with many of the problems the Jameses had encountered in their
two children, who had been fed soy-based infant formula.
Startled, aghast, angry, the
Jameses hired toxicologist Mike Fitzpatrick. PhD, to investigate
further. Dr Fitzpatrick's literature review uncovered evidence
that soy consumption has been linked to numerous disorders,
including infertility, increased cancer and infantile leukemia;
and, in studies dating back to the 1950s,48 that genistein
in soy causes endocrine disruption in animals.
Dr Fitzpatrick also analyzed
the bird feed and found that it contained high levels of phytoestrogens,
especially genistein. When the Jameses discontinued using
soy-based feed, the flock gradually returned to normal breeding
habits and behavior.
The Jameses embarked on a private
crusade to warn the public and government officials about
toxins in soy foods, particularly the endocrine-disrupting
isoflavones, genistein and diadzen. Protein Technology International
received their material in 1994.
In 1991, Japanese researchers
reported that consumption of as little as 30 grams or two
tablespoons of soybeans per day for only one month resulted
in a significant increase in thyroid-stimulating hormone.49
Diffuse goiter and hypothyroidism appeared in some of the
subjects and many complained of constipation, fatigue and
lethargy, even though their intake of iodine was adequate.
In 1997, researchers from the
FDA's National Center for Toxicological Research made the
embarrassing discovery that the goitrogenic components of
soy were the very same isoflavones.50
Twenty-five grams of soy protein
isolate, the minimum amount PTI claimed to have cholesterol-lowering
effects, contains from 50 to 70 mg of isoflavones. It took
only 45 mg of isoflavones in premenopausal women to exert
significant biological effects, including a reduction in hormones
needed for adequate thyroid function. These effects lingered
for three months after soy consumption was discontinued.51
One hundred grams of soy protein
- the maximum suggested cholesterol-lowering dose, and the
amount recommended by Protein Technologies International -
can contain almost 600 mg of isoflavones,52 an amount that
is undeniably toxic. In 1992, the Swiss health service estimated
that 100 grams of soy protein provided the estrogenic equivalent
of the Pill.53
In vitro studies suggest that
isoflavones inhibit synthesis of estradiol and other steroid
hormones.54 Reproductive problems, infertility, thyroid disease
and liver disease due to dietary intake of isoflavones have
been observed for several species of animals including mice,
cheetah, quail, pigs, rats, sturgeon and sheep.55
It is the isoflavones in soy
that are said to have a favorable effect on postmenopausal
symptoms, including hot flushes, and protection from osteoporosis.
Quantification of discomfort from hot flushes is extremely
subjective, and most studies show that control subjects report
reduction in discomfort in amounts equal to subjects given
soy.56 The claim that soy prevents osteoporosis is extraordinary,
given that soy foods block calcium and cause vitamin D deficiencies.
If Asians indeed have lower
rates of osteoporosis than Westerners, it is because their
diet provides plenty of vitamin D from shrimp, lard and seafood,
and plenty of calcium from bone broths. The reason that Westerners
have such high rates of osteoporosis is because they have
substituted soy oil for butter, which is a traditional source
of vitamin D and other fat-soluble activators needed for calcium
absorption.
Birth
Control Pills For Babies
But it was the isoflavones in
infant formula that gave the Jameses the most cause for concern.
In 1998, investigators reported that the daily exposure of
infants to isoflavones in soy infant formula is 6 to11 times
higher on a body-weight basis than the dose that has hormonal
effects in adults consuming soy foods. Circulating concentrations
of isoflavones in infants fed soy-based formula were 13,000
to 22,000 times higher than plasma estradiol concentrations
in infants on cow's milk formula.57
Approximately 25 per cent of
bottle-fed children in the US receive soy-based formula -
a much higher percentage than in other parts of the Western
world. Fitzpatrick estimated that an infant exclusively fed
soy formula receives the estrogenic equivalent (based on body
weight) of at least five birth control pills per day.58 By
contrast, almost no phytoestrogens have been detected in dairy-based
infant formula or in human milk, even when the mother consumes
soy products.
Scientists have known for years
that soy-based formula can cause thyroid problems in babies.
But what are the effects of soy products on the hormonal development
of the infant, both male and female?
Male infants undergo a "testosterone
surge" during the first few months of life, when testosterone
levels may be as high as those of an adult male. During this
period, the infant is programmed to express male characteristics
after puberty, not only in the development of his sexual organs
and other masculine physical traits, but also in setting patterns
in the brain characteristic of male behavior.
In monkeys, deficiency of male
hormones impairs the development of spatial perception (which,
in humans, is normally more acute in men than in women), of
learning ability and of visual discrimination tasks (such
as would be required for reading).59 It goes without saying
that future patterns of sexual orientation may also be influenced
by the early hormonal environment.
Male children exposed during
gestation to diethylstilbestrol (DES), a synthetic estrogen
that has effects on animals similar to those of phytoestrogens
from soy, had testes smaller than normal on manturation.60
Learning disabilities, especially
in male children, have reached epidemic proportions. Soy infant
feeding - which began in earnest in the early 1970s - cannot
be ignored as a probable cause for these tragic developments.
As for girls, an alarming number
are entering puberty much earlier than normal, according to
a recent study reported in the journal Pediatrics.61 Investigators
found that one per cent of all girls now show signs of puberty,
such as breast development or pubic hair, before the age of
three; by age eight, 14.7 per cent of white girls and almost
50 per cent of African-American girls have one or both of
these characteristics.
New data indicate that environmental
estrogens such as PCBs and DDE (a breakdown product of DDT)
may cause early sexual development in girls.62 In the 1986
Puerto Rico Premature Thelarche study, the most significant
dietary association with premature sexual development was
not chicken - as reported in the press - but soy infant formula.63
The consequences of this truncated
childhood are tragic. Young girls with mature bodies must
cope with feelings and urges that most children are not well-equipped
to handle. And early maturation in girls is frequently a harbinger
for problems with the reproductive system later in life, including
failure to menstruate, infertility and breast cancer.
Parents who have contacted the
Jameses recount other problems associated with children of
both sexes who were fed soy-based formula, including extreme
emotional behavior, asthma, immune system problems, pituitary
insufficiency, thyroid disorders and irritable bowel syndrome
- the same endocrine and digestive havoc that afflicted the
Jameses' parrots.
Dissension
In The Ranks
Organizers of the Third International
Soy Symposium would be hard-pressed to call the conference
an unqualified success. On the second day of the symposium,
the London-based Food Commission and the Weston A. Price Foundation
of Washington, DC, held a joint press conference, in the same
hotel as the symposium, to present concerns about soy infant
formula.
Industry representatives sat
stony-faced through the recitation of potential dangers and
a plea from concerned scientists and parents to pull soy-based
infant formula from the market. Under pressure from the Jameses,
the New Zealand Government had issued a health warning about
soy infant formula in 1998; it was time for the American government
to do the same.
On the last day of the symposium,
presentations on new findings related to toxicity sent a well-oxygenated
chill through the giddy helium hype. Dr Lon White reported
on a study of Japanese Americans living in Hawaii, that showed
a significant statistical relationship between two or more
servings of tofu a week and "accelerated brain aging".64
Those participants who consumed
tofu in mid-life had lower cognitive function in late life
and a greater incidence of Alzheimer's disease and dementia.
"What's more," said Dr White, "those who ate
a lot of tofu, by the time they were 75 or 80 looked five
years older".65 White and his colleagues blamed the negative
effects on isoflavones - a finding that supports an earlier
study in which postmenopausal women with higher levels of
circulating estrogen experienced greater cognitive decline.66
Scientists Daniel Sheehan and
Daniel Doerge, from the National Center for Toxicological
Research, ruined PTI's day by presenting findings from rat
feeding studies, indicating that genistein in soy foods causes
irreversible damage to enzymes that synthesise thyroid hormones.67
"The association between
soybean consumption and goiter in animals and humans has a
long history," wrote Dr Doerge. "Current evidence
for the beneficial effects of soy requires a full understanding
of potential adverse effects as well."
Dr Claude Hughes reported that
rats born to mothers that were fed genistein had decreased
birth weights compared to controls, and onset of puberty occurred
earlier in male offspring.68 His research suggested that the
effects observed in rats "...will be at least somewhat
predictive of what occurs in humans.
There is no reason to assume
that there will be gross malformations of fetuses but there
may be subtle changes, such as neurobehavioral attributes,
immune function and sex hormone levels." The results,
he said, "could be nothing or could be something of great
concern...if mom is eating something that can act like sex
hormones, it is logical to wonder if that could change the
baby's development".69
A study of babies born to vegetarian
mothers, published in January 2000, indicated just what those
changes in baby's development might be. Mothers who ate a
vegetarian diet during pregnancy had a fivefold greater risk
of delivering a boy with hypospadias, a birth defect of the
penis.70 The authors of the study suggested that the cause
was greater exposure to phytoestrogens in soy foods popular
with vegetarians.
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