Norio Owada keeps things in his freezer that don't
freeze well: cream cakes, half-eaten apples, milk, fish,
sushi rolls. When visitors stop by his lab outside of
Tokyo, he reaches into one of his tall, deep, polished
freezers and pulls out a cake lowered to --25 degrees
Fahrenheit. Then he drops it, with a clang, on the laboratory's
steel table. Once it thaws it looks and tastes as good
as new.
Owada's is an amazing feat: Anyone who has tried to
freeze cream knows that the water separates from the
fat, leaving a crumbly discolored glob. About a decade
ago Owada, 64, brought to market an invention called
the cells alive system. Not since Clarence Birdseye's
fast-freeze method came along in the 1920s has there
been a chiller technology with this much potential to
change the world. Birdseye was able to freeze food with
minimal cell damage; Owada has eliminated harm from
the process.
It works like a microwave oven but in reverse. Inside
the freezer the object being frozen is zapped with a
strong magnetic field and, Owada says, other kinds of
energy. The field keeps the cream or beef's water molecules
swirling in liquid form even as their temperature plummets.
When the field is switched off, the object is instantly
frozen, without time for the formation of ice crystals.
These crystals normally rip apart organic cells, which
degrades the texture and taste of food.
So far his privately held company, ABI, has sold 230
freezer systems to food processors, restaurants, hotels
and hospitals in and outside Japan. Sales were $14 million
last year. Agriculture and fisheries officials from
around the world have been poking around his iceboxes,
which cost between $100,000 and $3 million. In February
Owada showed off his invention to Ireland's farm minister,
Mary Coughlan. "I fed her defrosted shrimp, tuna, squid
and sea bream. She said it tasted like fresh," says
Owada.
Owada wants to save lives by shipping another kind
of meat: organs. The danger of chilling organs on ice
for too long-- 5 hours at most for a heart, 6 to 12
for a liver--has kept organ shipment for transplantation
restricted to short distances. Even getting a liver
across town is still sometimes a low-tech dash with
a cooler box. "If you could preserve a heart for three
days, you could fly it anywhere," says Owada.
Forty-seven researchers are experimenting with Owada's
technology to preserve human organs. A group at Tokyo
University is freezing mouse hearts with a technology
similar to Owada's. Another group at Keio University
is preserving nerve fibers. Owada predicts that the
first defrosted organ transplant could happen within
a decade.
Toshitsugu Kawata, an associate professor of dentistry
at Hiroshima University, is using Owada's system to
run a commercial cryogenic tooth bank, with 1,600 teeth
in stock. Under a tooth's hard enamel are softer layers
with enough water in them to form harmful ice crystals
when frozen. For $1,200 he'll keep your wisdom teeth
safely on ice for 20 years. You can have them transplanted
back for less than the cost of artificial implants.
"It's like having a spare tire," he jokes.
It took Owada 30 years to perfect his idea, which was
partly inspired by an American pilot who, 40 years ago,
told him about how raindrops turn to ice on contact
with aircraft wings. Owada worked on the idea while
apprenticing at his father's small engineering firm.
The two made guns, pinball machines and ovens. "My friends
would head off to the beach or the pool, my father would
tell me to get to work," he says.
Even at his age, Owada feels sharp enough for a new
venture. This year he's going to build a plant in Europe
to freeze cakes and chocolates from France and Belgium.
"We'll put them in a 40-foot container and ship them
over to Japan," he says. All those sweets may spark
a run at the tooth bank.