High amounts of a toxin with known connections to
heart disease and neurological disorders accumulate
in vegetable-based cooking oils that are heated or
reheated for hours at a time, new research shows.
The fatty acid-derived toxin, called 4-hydroxy-trans-2-nonenal
(HNE), forms in especially high amounts in polyunsaturated
oils that have linoleic acid, which include canola,
corn, soybean and sunflower, researchers say. The
compound does not arise in saturated oils sourced
from animal fat.
"There's a tremendous literature in biochemistry
on HNE, a library of studies going back 20 years.
It's a very toxic compound," said lead researcher
A. Saari Csallany, a professor of food chemistry and
nutritional biochemistry at the University of Minnesota.
Based on the findings, American Dietetic Association
spokeswoman Jeannie Moloo said that "if a person is
concerned about the health aspects of HNE, then my
recommendations would be to never heat any oil to
the point of smoking and, as far as cooking at home
goes, just use the oil one time. And avoid eating
fried foods in restaurants."
Donna Garren, a regulatory affairs executive with
the National Restaurant Association, which represents
more than 358,000 of the nation's eating establishments,
said there are no industry-wide rules currently in
place governing the choice and maintenance of cooking
oils.
But, she added, "if there is a risk, we'd be concerned
about that and want to work with the appropriate federal
agency to look at a thorough risk assessment."
The findings were presented this week at the American
Oil Chemists Society annual meeting, in Salt Lake
City.
According to Csallany, who conducted the research
with graduate student Christine Seppanen, HNE has
a long pedigree as a health threat to humans. Numerous
studies have linked HNE consumption to increased risks
for cardiovascular disease, stroke, Parkinson's, Alzheimer's,
Huntington's disease, liver ailments and even cancer,
she said.
Vegetable-based monounsaturated and polyunsaturated
fats are inherently unstable, especially at high temperatures,
Csallany said. And "HNE arises from linoleic acid
[contained in these oils]. For example, soybean oil
is about 54 percent linoleic, canola a bit lower,
corn oil a little higher, maybe 60 percent, and sunflower
oil is even higher than that," she added.
"HNE's toxicity is that it reacts very energetically
with biomolecules" once it is absorbed into the body
via food, Csallany said. "It reacts with the various
kinds of amino groups -- proteins, DNA, RNA, affecting
basic cellular processes," she added.
In their previous work, Csallany and Seppanen discovered
that HNE tends to form in vegetable oils at high temperatures,
accumulating steadily over a period of up to 6.5 hours,
after which point it begins to decompose.
A study they published last year in the
Journal
of the American Oil Chemists' Society also found
that the level of absorbed HNE in French fries was
equal to HNE concentrations in the oil the fries were
cooked in, she said.
"Our next question was, 'So, what happens if somebody
at home is using oil for an hour, then lets it stand
overnight for two or three days? Does it decompose
by itself? Or if it's reheated does the accumulation
start adding up again?'" Csallany said.
Their latest experiment found that "intermittent
heating is just as bad as continuous heating," Csallany
said.
Based on the findings, she recommends that people
avoid foods fried in polyunsaturated vegetable oils.
"It's not so bad if you eat these foods once or
twice in a while, but if you are continuously eating
them, and the oils are neglected, kept aside, that's
not so healthy," she said.
And what about fast-food restaurants, where deep
fryers are kept hot and active most of the day?
"Smaller operations tend to use soybean oil or
some other vegetable oil," Csallany said. "At the
chains -- although we haven't tested there -- they
generally use hydrogenated soybean oil. Hydrogenation
doesn't get rid of the linoleic acid, but it could
make it a little less. However, it's still there in
high concentrations."
Moloo agreed that the real concern is restaurant
fare. "I'm not so worried about the home cook using
a vegetable oil -- using a corn or soybean oil to
stir-fry vegetables, for example -- because most of
the time it's a short, one-time use," she said. "I'm
more concerned about fried foods in restaurants, where
the oil may be used over and over."
Garren said, "It's the option of the [restaurant]
operator as to what combination of oils they use --
they might want to use a combination of animal (protein-based)
and vegetable oils, depending on palatability."
As to changing the oil, she added, "There is mention
of maintenance of oils in the [U.S. Food
and Drug Administration's] Food Code, and it
leaves it to the discretion of the operator, based
on the cleanliness of the oils."
She noted, however, that too-frequent changing of
cooking oils can bring its own problems.
"You have to make sure that you aren't wasting oils
that are perfectly good to use, because then you have
disposal issues. We want to make sure we're not creating
another problem by arbitrarily dumping oil," she said.
But Moloo says dumping vegetable-based cooking oil
after use may be a good idea, at least in residential
kitchens.
"If you deep-fry foods at home, throw out the oil
after cooking rather than saving it," she said. "And
if HNE is a concern for you, then one of the ways
to eliminate it from your diet is simply not to eat
these fried foods."
She also noted that not all vegetable oils are created
equal.
"Oils that are high in saturated fats and monounsaturated
fats are the most stable when heated -- from a vegetable
oil standpoint, those would include peanut and olive
oil," the nutritionist said.
Other polyunsaturated oils such as soybean, corn,
canola or sunflower "might better be used at room
temperature, such as in salad dressings," she added.
For her part, Csallany said she would abandon vegetable
oils as a cooking staple altogether.
"If I was frying, I'd go back to beef tallow --
it's very high in oleic acid," which does not produce
HNE, she said. "And there's new information that shows
that not all [animal-based] saturated fats are the
same. Stearic acid, for example, is found in saturated
fat and it doesn't increase cholesterol and doesn't
produce HNE."
But Moloo is more leery of any switch back to animal
oils.
"Anytime we're looking at eating a lot of fat in
the diet it's going to cause problems, whether it's
toxic compounds that come out through the heating
process, or other components of the fat, such as high
cholesterol levels," she said.
For its part, the National Restaurant Association
intends to wait for word from the FDA,
which has the power to issue guidances on these types
of issues.
At this point, Garren said, "it would be fairly
arbitrary for us to make a decision -- obviously,
we'd want to carefully monitor this and be of any
help we can be to the FDA in moving forward with a
thorough risk assessment."